Editor’s note: One of the nice things about running your own newspaper is that you can publish stuff that simply interests you. It doesn’t necessarily have to be about your region of the country, although it helps to have a local tie-in. Today, we give you the second of what should three or four pieces from South County residents Paul and Voni Glaves, who are making a grand tour on their bikes (the motorized versions) this summer. Interesting stuff and nicely written.
By Paul Glaves, Daily Planet associate travel editor
We last reported from Kamiah, Idaho, just downhill from Lolo Pass on US 12. We were headed towards Lacey, Washington for a brief visit with Voni's Aunt Gen. As we approached the metropolitan area we encountered at least hundreds of motorcyclists. Groups of Harleys plodding along with traffic stuck behind them; groups of sports bikes buzzing through traffic; occasional touring riders in ones and twos and threes. It was cold at White Pass but otherwise the riding on US 12 and north on 7 was perfectly glorious!
Of course: it was Saturday, and sunny with moderate temperatures. An event that seemingly brings out every motorcyclist because such convergences of day and weather are rare. I truly admire motorcycle riders who live in the Pacific Northwest. I have to confess that if I lived there I would not own a motorcycle. I live in the desert for a reason. I hate riding in the rain. Traction is impaired. Visibility is impaired. Enjoyment is impaired.
The forecast Saturday evening was for rain to start mid-day on Monday. We planned to depart to the north on Monday morning. They blew the forecast by about 36 hours as the rain started before dawn Sunday. And of course was predicted to continue until Wednesday, or maybe Thursday.
Now ducking for a day to avoid bad weather is one thing. But a delay for the better part of a week is less practical. So on Monday morning off we headed toward the Canadian border. After precisely 300 feet Voni's high beam headlight burned out. OK - use low beam, I'll change it when it isn't raining. After precisely 2.8 miles my speedometer and odometer both quit. They will be fine later once things dry out. I-5 traffic amidst throngs of drivers who have already had about two too many cups of expresso and show it, was not in the plan. We slipped west of the sound and north to the ferry at Port Townsend. It started akin to riding in a bowl of milk. Foggy. Fogged glasses and fogged face shield. Once we turned north there might have actually been scenery except for the fog, and the walls of green trees.
As mentioned, I hate riding in the rain. I was annoyed. So when we stopped for gas, Voni pointedly made sure I noticed the cheeky inspirational message on the screen on the gas pump right after I poked it to signify I didn't want a car wash. It said, "A bad attitude is like a flat tire. You can't go anywhere until you change it." Voni's glee in pointing this out to me actually cheered me up for a little while.
By the time we reached Port Townsend the rain had reduced itself to annoying instead of infuriating. The ferry crossing was routine except they told us to stay with the bikes on the cold, damp, and breezy car deck instead of going to the nice warm lounge because of the winds and the waves which might cause our bikes to take a tumble. So we did.
Whidbey Island was mostly drier - sprinkles instead of rain - but the winds were roaring across the water and lowlands at a brisk pace. We rode as far as Burlington, Washington, not Canada, a whopping 155 miles. We knew it will probably be raining again in the morning but I'd almost always rather ride in the rain some other day than the day at hand. During a brief moment when it actually wasn't raining I changed Voni's high beam headlight bulb.
It was not a surprise when Tuesday dawned almost, but not quite as damp as did Monday. We rode north. By the time we reached the border with Canada we could actually see the sky. It wasn't blue but at least we could tell there was a sky. And by the time we reached Hope, BC the sky was a combination of blue, and fluffy white clouds. The Canadian border official we met seemed to be having a bad day. He first had us roll our bikes way forward so he could read the license plate and then made us push them backward so he could continue to ask questions. Apparently his high-tech camera and computer link was broken. He didn't really hassle us but was just surly.
Voni said she asked him if he was tired or what. I figured either his wife was leaving him or his teenage daughter just told him she was pregnant. I just shut up and only answered questions.
Carefully adhering to planned stops (finally) we quit for the day at Cache Creek. My speedometer and odometer started working again 51 miles south of Cache Creek. So everything works again.
It had only dipped to 50 degrees overnight so we got a fairly early start today. We awoke to some scurrying around a pickup parked a couple of doors down in the motel lot. Much to our amazement we spied a man cleaning the engine and other under-hood areas with a feather duster. We'll never know ... and were afraid to ask. We paused at a rest area for some coffee. There was one pickup truck over on the other side of the area. Soon we heard music. Looking over we saw a couple - he with a trumpet and she with a french horn, standing on a picnic table and playing their instruments. Whether they were just exuberant or a BC welcoming committee we don't know. We stopped briefly for resupply (snacks, chain lube, Camp Dry spray, etc.) at Quesnel, and breezed through Prince George. As we turned west on the Yellowhead Highway storm clouds appeared ahead. We were aiming toward Vanderhoof, about 50 miles away. Paul kept telling himself, "I won't have to ride in more than 45 miles of rain ... 35 miles ... 25 miles ... 10 miles ... zero miles."
We stopped for the night at Vanderhoof. The Sun came out as we arrived. We are now two short days or one longer day from Hyder, Alaska.
He was one of the founders of the Chihuahuan Desert Research Institute at Fort Davis because, he said, "this was the last big piece of North America we didn't understand very well."
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